Capturing the richness of the Mediterranean and translating the warmth and familiarity of a neighbourhood bistro into something characteristically elegant, André Fu has updated the iconic Upper House space to provide conviviality and intimacy

Design-Anthology-2021-05 Salisterra, HKThe-Upper-House_Salisterra_Bar-Booth-(2)_.jpg

Entering Salisterra from the Sky Bridge at The Upper House, a Deco-influenced geometric bronze gate frames the harbour view that became iconic during the space’s previous life as Café Gray Deluxe. Overhead, an oversized bespoke chandelier catches the eye. But what stands out is the hubbub, even on a weeknight — the space is close to full, with the ‘social dining’ experience working as intended.

The space feels intimately familiar, but has been reimagined via its colour and material palette. ‘I’ve taken my memories of the Mediterranean as an inspiration and have responded with a dialogue of colours and bold geometries to complement chef Jun Tanaka’s vivid cuisine,’ says designer André Fu. ‘The aspiration right from the beginning was to capture the richness of the Mediterranean with the warmth and familiarity of a neighbourhood bistro.’

Fu selected a colour palette of earthy terracotta orange, rich burgundy, mineral blue, dusty turquoise and golden caramel to create five unique spaces. ‘I also infused a new language of fluidity into the designs, with an emphasis on organic forms and sculptural silhouettes,’ he says. Indeed, the realisation of geometry, tactility and vibrancy provides a subtle but compelling thread throughout. Adjoining the main dining room, three semi-private dining booths are marked by an elevated marble counter table and fluted globe pendants hung from inverted copper cones. A private dining room is accented by handmade ceramic tiles in a bronze patina glaze and an equally warm and inviting display of copper pans.

On the other side of the main dining room, the long bar remains a fixture, realised in Brazilian burgundy marble; bar booths are accented with vine-like pendants and tactile orange upholstery. Beyond, the bar lounge is accessed via another gate that evokes a trellis, in keeping with the room’s conception as an oasis inspired by olive trees, pistachio and vines. But in keeping with Fu’s trademark aesthetic, chic overrides rustic, with racing-green lacquer and vivid Pevla stone providing striking ornamentation. Lush, fluid forms predominate, with elegantly tapered love seats opposing plush chairs and petite circular stone tables.

Throughout, Fu’s eye for refined detail rewards the discerning eye, with subtle geometric and material motifs such as verticality and bronze. But for Fu, the layout is just as important. ‘The whole dining experience has been devised as multiple wine and dine sections, each conceived with an integrated service style that allows greater interaction with guests,’ he says. This was in evidence during my visit, with the attentive sommelier expounding the virtues of a thoughtful wine list focused on small, sustainable producers and rarely seen varietals such as Vermentino and red Cinsault. Wait staff are equally attentive and knowledgeable, happy to discuss the finer points of the Mediterranean-inspired cuisine that, like the design, takes a few high-quality ingredients and turns them into an experience.

Text / Philip Annetta
Images / Courtesy of The Upper House